Korea & Taiwan - November 2013

On this outing I opted to do some proper adventuring with a custom itinerary all my own. Taiwan was the major destination, but my flights were going have me changing planes in Korea anyway and since threats of conflict from North Korea had faded from the news this seemed to be the opportune time to add on a couple of days for a visit to South Korea as well.

Seoul, South Korea (Day One) -

The first day in Seoul I had to do the one thing you really can't do as a tourist anywhere else in the world, visit the the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ). But I don't don't work for CNN or some travel TV program so I was not going to be able to get a solo tour of the best places like Panmunjom and I had to do a packaged tour. However it was entirely worth it as the DMZ was both surreal and awesome at the same time.

On the drive from Seoul, the highway starts out with the border along the Imjin River where there is this giant fence with razor wire on top and camoflage painted watch posts every so often and it all seems properly intimidating for a former war zone where there is still only a cease fire and no final peace treaty. Then we get to Imjingak Park and Freedom Bridge where there are monuments, ribbons tied to the fences symbolizing the hopes of a divided country, and yet as you look around here it also starts to tip a bit into the bizarre. Perhaps it was just the Soybean Festival that was also supposed to be happening while I was there, but a couple hundred yards south of the bridge just to one side of the car park there is what I can only describe as a carnival midway with rides, games, food, and tents selling DMZ t-shirts & genuine barbed wire souvenirs.

Demilitarized Zone (DMZ), South Korea

Next up was the 3rd Infiltration Tunnel, which they think was a planned military invasion route by North Korea. It is the 3rd because four such tunnels have been discovered although more are believed to exist. Outside it other than the colorful DMZ sign in front of the exhibition hall it might be a war memorial similar to others found around the world, but lest you forget this is still an armed border area there were a couple of busloads of South Korean (ROK) soldiers touring the place along with all of us civilians. Inside you are not allowed to take pictures (they make you put your bags and cameras in a locker before you go in), you have to wear a hard hat, and the tunnel itself is a cramped space through roughly hewn rock that is notable damp in places. However, you can go clear to where they have it barricaded at the actual demarcation Line between the two countries.

Travel Tip: Personally, unless you are fairly short in height, I would consider actually going into the tunnel optional. You're not missing much if you don't do it, but the ceilings in the tunnels are low and it is a bit of a hike (around 2 km round trip on a moderate but notable grade) in and out.

Other stops on the tour included Dora Observatory, the new Dorasan train station, and Unification Village, but the real highlight of this tour was Panmunjom. Just getting to Panmunjom you have to go through two military check points where you have to show your passport, first to a South Korea (ROK) soldier, and second to the U.S. military. Then the second part of the trip back to the Joint Security Area (JSA) is on a military bus with a couple of armed U.S. soldiers as an escort and the commentary along this part of the trip includes how the hills you pass through are manmade tank blockades (where the roads pass through them the walls are supposedly full of explosives so the passages can quickly be closed if the North attacks). Finally, in the JSA you get to go into one of the infamous conference rooms where the line of microphones across the table marks the actual border between North and South. Way cool!

Seoul, South Korea (Day Two) -

Today the goal was to complete a whirlwind tour of the major sights to see in Seoul itself, and my first stop was Jogyesa Buddhist Temple. Perhaps it was just the part of Seoul that I was in (downtown near City Hall and the Lotte Department Store) but I had already noticed there were several small historic spots even in close walking distance around the hotel, an old temple building hidden between buildings virtually next door, part of the old city wall in the center of a traffic roundabout just a few blocks away, etc. and Jogyesa Temple was the same. It is a small temple virtually in the middle of the city with a history dating back even before the current temple was established in 1910. In the temple is a statue of Seokgamoni (Buddha at the moment of enlightenment), and even one of the trees there is considered a national landmark.

Next I had wanted to try and see Blue House (the Presidential Residence) but unfortunately the police had the streets around there blocked for some reason this day, so I continued on to the National Folklore Museum where I doubtless did not spend enough time since they have a lot of displays about traditional Korean life. But the Folklore Museum is located on the grounds of Gyeongbokgung Palace which I also wanted to see along with the changing of the guard ceremony they reneact at the front gates (since this is a scheduled event I needed to organize my time here around when that occurred).

A bit of shopping on Insadong Antique Alley and some Bibimbap (my fayorite Korean food) for lunch, then onward to Changdeokgung Palace. I think Changdeokgung Palace was originally a large complex like the Forbidden city in Beijing but it was damaged during the Japanese occupation of Korea and only a small percentage of the complex remains now. One interesting note though is that traditional houses in Korea were a bit elevated, had stone floors and a space under the floors for a fireplace (radiant floor heating), so when visiting the palaces you can kind of tell the buildings that were residential (fireplace under floor for heating) from the buildings that were strictly for business (no heating).

Finally I finished up the day with a bit more shopping in Namdaemun Market. They don't have night markets in Korea, and unfortunately I ran out of time before I got to Seoul Tower or Cheonggyecheon stream. I definately should have planned at least a few more days in Seoul.

Taipei, Taiwan (Day Three) -

Even though the actual flight was not that long most of today was spent in transit from Korea, but after checking into the hotel in Taipei I did get out and explore the area around the hotel visiting the Flower Market, and even walking down to the outside of Taipei 101. However, I did not go up to the observation levels of Taipei 101 today as it was a bit rainy and hazy out. I was leaving for Sun Moon Lake in the morning, but would be back to see Taipei later in the week and staying at the same hotel so still considered it time well spent.

Sun Moon Lake, Taiwan (Day Four) -

Although it did eventually start to clear up late in the afternoon, on first arriving at Sun Moon Lake it was really foggy and you could barely see the lake at all. Since the lake tour boats were not operating (and there wouldn't have been much to see in the fog even if they were), the first stop here was Xuan Zang Temple. Xuan Zang was a Buddhist monk that traveled to India (and apparently many other parts of Asia) during the Tang dynasty bringing back original sacred texts to China and was inspiration for one of the great classic novels in chinese fiction, Journey to the West. But one thing I did also note here was that male and female monks seem to act as equals with the same shaved heads and attire, and having visited many other Buddhist Temples and Monasteries in my travels around Asia where there was a distict seperation between male monks and female nuns I have to say that this felt distinctly enlightened.

Early afternoon I looked around the Ita Thao shopping area and sampled some of the local street food until the fog lifted, then it was off on one of the boat tours across the lake. Of course the downside of the boat ride was that all the tour commentary was in mandarin and while I could follow some of the trivial information on the far side of the lake we got off the boat and went up a hill to a small shrine but I have no idea what the name of that place was as there were no english signs and unless you already know a name hearing it in another language does not have much meaning.

The last stop at Sun Moon Lake was Wen Wu Temple. Quite a unique temple actually as it is the only one I can recall that has three main halls. The front hall is a shrine devoted to the First Ancestor Kaiji & the God of Literature, the central hall is devoted to Guan Gong (the God of War) & the warrior-god Yue Fei, and the rear hall is dedicated to Confucius. They also say it is the only Confucius temple in Taiwan that contains an image of the sage (a bronze statue).

Kaohsiung, Taiwan (Day Five) -

On the way to Kaohsiung we stopped in Jiji to see the Wuchang Temple which collapsed during the 921 earthquake of 1999. They built a new Taoist temple next door, but the old collapsed temple has been left as a monument to the disaster that ocurred that day.

The next stop was at the Fo Guang Shan Buddhist Monastery. I think there was also a more traditional Monastery here as well, but the largest part is the Buddha Memorial Center which is an awesome sight to see and contains an incredible amount of interesting Buddhist material (even including a tooth relic of the Buddha in the the Jade Buddha shrine they say). I mean literally pagodas full of presentations on various Buddhist themes, statues of all the Buddha's main disciples, stupas that symbolizing the four noble truths, and a huge seated Buddha statue something like 100 meters high. Truly an amazing place, and yet I can't help but wonder if it is not just a bit too commercialized.

Late afternoon the last stop was a visit to the site of the historic former British Consulate and Residence overlooking Sizihwan Bay and the Port of Kaohsiung, after that todays tour was adjourned to the Lio Ho Night Market in search of dinner. After trying many of the street foods here, I think my personal favorite was the grilled pork sausage with sweet white rice that kind of looked a bit like a hot dog...

Kaohsiung to Taitung, Taiwan (Day Six) -

The majority of the day today was spent touring Kenting National Park which I think covers most of the southern tip of Taiwan. I got my picture taken at the marker for the southern most point of Taiwan, saw the Oluanpi lighthouse (across the pathway from that southern marker), and hiked in the forest recreation area to see some of the small caves. From the top of the observation tower there you can see all of the landmarks.

Taitung to Hualien, Taiwan (Day Seven) -

Traveling along the East Coast National Scenic Area we stopped to see many of the interesting land formations formed by coral reefs like Ginger rock at Siaoyeliou, Shitiping (Stone Steps), the Caves of the Eight Immortals, and the Sanxiantai (Terrace of the Three Immortals) Dragon Bridge. The final stop of the day was at the Qingshui Cliffs, notable because mainland China has included a picture of this area on their passports to show that Taiwan is a part of China.

Dragon Bridge

Hualien to Taipei, Taiwan (Day eight) -

After the cloudy and quite windy trip along the coast the sun was out again today for the tour of Taroko National Park. Taroko Gorge which is said to be the world's deepest marble canyon had many scenic locations like the Marble Bridge, Swallow Grotto, and Eternal Spring Shrine which I believe is in recognition of those that died in building the Cross-Island Highway. Hiking in some areas you needed to wear a hard hat which were provided, and driving by the one area which was closed due to a recent rock slide (Tunnel of Nine Turns I believe) one can understand why this might be a goood idea.

Taipei, Taiwan (Day Nine) -

As this was my last full day in Taiwan I set out to see the highlights of Taipei itself. Starting out at the Chiang Kai Shek Memorial Hall for the changing of the guard ceremony, then on to Martyrs' Shrine, the National Palace Museum, Taipei 101 (including going up to the observation levels this time) and finally finishing up in the evening with Longshan Temple, and the Huaxi Street (Snake Street) night market. More great street food at the night market (no, I did not try the snake).

All in all, a great asian adventure. As always there is still certainly a lot more I could have seen, but I think I got a pretty good overview of Taiwan in my tour around the island, and a taste of Korea in my short stop there. Both places worth visiting again, it would probably even be interesting to see North Korea for the opposite perspective but I doubt it will ever be safe enough for me to do a tour there...